Guide: Grow Globe Artichokes in Cold Climates

By Steven Biggs

Planting Artichokes for the Delicious Flower Buds

header image for Grow Globe Artichokes in Cold Climates showing globe artichokes

Growing artichokes in cold climates is done differently than in milder climates.

“Dad, make lots of garlic butter!” It’s the first thing my kids say when I tell them I’m cooking fresh artichokes. Fine with me! I love the garlic butter as much as they do.

Besides the taste (and the garlic butter) there’s another thing I love about globe artichoke: It’s slow to eat, so there’s lots of time for family banter. We chat as we peel off bracts, dip them in butter, and repeat.

It’s the antithesis of fast food.

In our household we just call them artichokes. But some people call them globe artichokes – and in the UK you might hear them called French artichokes. (And if you like Latin names, Cynara cardunculus, var scolymus.)

Whatever you call them, you’re eating unopened artichoke flowers. Edible flower buds! (Unlike Jerusalem artichoke, where you’re eating a tuber.)

It can be a challenge to grow artichokes in cold climates. Keep reading, this article will explain how to grow your own artichoke plants and get flower buds.

artichoke flower buds

You can grow artichokes in northern climates…with the right variety, temperature, and timing.

Growing Artichokes in Northern Gardens

Artichoke is a tender perennial, meaning that it lives for a number of years where there are mild winters. But in a colder, northern climate, it does not survive the winter.

That means northern gardeners grow artichoke as an annual. (I have tried digging up mature plants in the fall to overwinter in my cold cupboard…but, frankly, it’s not worth the bother.)

In warmer areas, artichoke can be a big plant. But in the cold-climate garden, one metre (3’) high and wide is the biggest I’d expect…and probably smaller.

seed-grown artichoke plant

In cold climates, artichoke can be grown successfully from seed

How to Grow Artichoke in a Cold Climate

In areas where it survives the winter, it is often grown from “offsets,” which are side shoots that come up from established plants. These are cut off and rooted to make new plants.

If you’re in a cold climate, you probably won’t find offsets for sale. The alternative is to grow artichoke from seed.

That’s what I do.

Don’t think of seed-growing artichoke as second best. I know of a farm near where I live, in Toronto, that grows first-rate seed-grown artichokes on a large scale.

Just make sure you have a long enough growing season, upwards of about 100 frost-free days.

Grow Artichoke from Seed

Start artichoke seeds indoors, 8-10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. Plant seeds about 6 mm (1/4”) deep. A warmer temperature helps with germination, so I put mine on a heat mat. (Hot water radiators or heated floors are good heat sources too!)

Once your artichoke seedlings are up and growing, take them off the heat.

I usually plant 3-4 seeds in a small pot. Once they’ve grown a second set of leaves, I separate them and give them their own pots.

artichoke seedlings at the seed-leaf stage

Trick

Like many seed-grown perennials, flowering in the first year isn’t assured. To get flowers in same year that you grow your artichokes from seed, you give your young plants a cool-temperature treatment.

It seems counter-intuitive to a lot of gardeners. We’re used to coddling our seedlings. And that’s true for lots of the heat-loving crops we grow such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants.

But…artichoke plants are different. And the cool-temperature tweak helps induce flowering.

So here’s the idea:

  • Imagine a young artichoke seedling growing in a warmer zone, where it grows as a perennial: The first year it makes leaves, then it lives through the mild winter, and then, finally, it flowers in its second year

  • You don’t have the luxury of a second year because your cold winter temperatures will kill your artichoke

  • But…you can expose your artichoke seedlings to cool conditions before planting them into the garden

  • And those cool conditions before transplanting into the garden do the same thing as a winter would – they move the plant into flower-production mode

Chill Treatment for Artichoke Plants

artichoke cold treatment, picture of artichoke seedlings in a fridge

Another way to provide a chill treatment to artichoke seedlings is with a stint in a fridge…but make sure they don’t dry out, as fridges have a drying effect.

Move artichoke plants outdoors when they won’t be exposed to frost, but will still get a week or two of cool temperatures.

Ten to 14 days of temperatures less than 10°C (50°F) helps to get flower buds to form.

Artichoke Seed

Get artichoke varieties known to produce artichokes buds in the first season when grown from seed.

Two well-known varieties are:

  • ‘Green Globe’

  • ‘Imperial Star’

Planting Artichoke Plants in the Garden

artichoke plant with flower bud, not as big as it would be in a climate with a longer growing season

Artichoke plants won’t grow as large in cold climates, so a spacing of up to 1 metre (3’) between plants is ample.

Artichoke plants can grow very large plants in areas where they survive the winter. So you might come across recommendations to space them as far apart as 1.5 metres (5’). Don’t!

  • Spacing: In cold climates, plant artichokes 1 metre (3’) apart

  • Light: Full sun is best

I’ve seen artichoke plants grown in straw-bale gardens, 2 plants to a bale. Find out more about straw-bale gardening.

Care

If your goal is large artichoke buds, remember that there is a main, central flower; and there will also be secondary flowers. I leave them all to grow, and get 5 or more artichokes from a plant.

But…gardeners out to grow large, prize-winning artichokes can prune off secondary flowers. (But don’t discard them! Use these in the kitchen as baby artichokes, see below.)

Get Your Fig Trees Through Winter

And eat fresh homegrown figs!

Top Tip

A lot of people think of Mediterranean climates – hot sun and dry conditions – when thinking of artichoke plants. They survive these conditions. But for the best crop, give your artichoke plants conditions that encourage uninterrupted growth. (And, remember, very dry conditions interrupt growth!)

  • Top Tip: Well-fed soil and ample moisture for uninterrupted growth

Challenges

Most years, artichoke plants are pest- and problem-free in my garden. On occasion, black aphids stop by for a visit. If beneficial insects don’t dispatch the aphids, insecticidal soap will clear them up.

Harvesting Artichokes

artichoke head that's open and past its prime

Harvest artichoke before the bracts open into a thistle-like flower.

Harvest artichokes before the bracts start to separate. You want them to be compact.

If you leave the flowers too long and they begin to open, you will get purple-blue thistle-like flowers.

They’re beautiful – but past best-eating.

Artichoke Harvest Tip

As you harvest artichokes, don't cut back the stem any further than you need to. You'll get side shoots from the same flower stalks. These secondary artichokes are not quick as large as the first ones, but just as tasty.

How to Eat Artichokes

For those new to artichokes, you’re peeling off the bracts, dipping them in the butter, and then dragging them against your teeth to scrape off the flesh on the inside. You don’t eat the bracts; they’re too fibrous.

And about those bracts…well, they look like petals. And some people call them scales. (I’ve seen people call them leaves, too.) But, technically, botanically, they’re bracts.

growing artichokes pinnable image

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As you get to the centre, there’s a cone with many small bracts. The bottom of these is usually tender enough to bite right off.

Beneath these, you come the hairy “choke,” a fibrous mat that you scrape off and discard. You don’t eat it. Use a spoon or your fingernails to dislodge the choke, but keep the thick saucer-shaped bit below. It’s called the heart – and artichoke hearts are the prize. Bathe them in butter dip before eating.

To Cook Large Artichokes:

  • Cut off the stem flush with the bottom of the artichoke

  • Remove the smaller, lower outer bracts

  • Use a knife to cut off the top of the artichoke (I take off the top quarter, and find that a bread knife works best to cut through the fibrous bracts)

  • Steam 30 minutes, top facing downwards (some people boil them, but I prefer steaming them)

  • Drain well and serve with garlic butter

And don’t skimp on the garlic butter. For a half pound of butter, I usually add a half teaspoon of salt, a crushed clove of garlic, and the juice of half a lemon. Where there are kids in the house demanding extra butter sauce…you can stretch it out by adding olive oil instead of more butter.

To Cook Small Artichokes:

When they’re still small, some of the stem beneath is still probably tender enough to eat. And you’ll be eating the choke too.

  • Halve artichokes lengthwise

  • Put in skillet with hot olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper and brown for a moment

  • Add lemon juice and water and braise until the liquid has evaporated and they’re tender (how much lemon juice will depend how tangy you like them…so play around with it.)

These braised baby artichokes are great as a side dish or on a salad.

Artichoke Plants in Garden Design

If you have a small garden, keep in mind artichoke plants are space hogs. There are more practical food plants you can grow in a small space.

But they are delicious. And they are really beautiful.

The jagged silver-grey leaves have a whitish underside. I love the colour and texture they bring to the edible garden. (Although they never quite look as good once the artichokes are removed.)

And lastly, if you like the look of artichoke leaves but don’t like to eat artichoke, grow cardoon, the leafy cousin to the artichoke.

garden bed with artichoke, purple cabbage, and lettuces, a nice mix of colours and texture

Garden design with artichoke: Use it to add colour and texture to the edible garden.

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